Planning

What to check on your boat at the end of the season: complete checklist

Updated: 6 min readCaranva Boats

Quick answer

At the end of the season check, in this order: engine (oil, filters, impeller, anodes and winterising), hull (bottom cleaning and whether to haul out for antifouling), deck (teak, caulking and gelcoat), electrics (charged batteries and connections), sails, canvas and rigging, interior (fresh water, bilges, ventilation) and doubled-up mooring lines and fenders for winter.

Steps

  1. Engine: oil and filter change, impeller, anodes and cooling-circuit protection.
  2. Fuel: full tank, stabiliser and water-separator drain.
  3. Hull: bottom cleaning and decide whether to haul out for antifouling and osmosis.
  4. Deck: clean and inspect teak, caulking, gelcoat and fittings.
  5. Electrics: batteries charged or disconnected, check terminals and charger.
  6. Sails, canvas and rigging: remove, wash, check stitching and store dry.
  7. Interior: drain fresh water, clean bilges, ventilate and use moisture absorbers.
  8. Lines and fenders: double lines, check chafe guards and add fenders for storms.

Why now

A boat suffers more sitting still than sailing. In autumn the weather is still good for work and yards have availability; in spring everyone wants the same thing at once. Anything you spot now (a leak, a dying battery) gets fixed calmly, without pre-season rush.

1. Engine and fuel

  • Oil and filter change with the engine warm.
  • Raw-water pump impeller and anodes.
  • Full tank with stabiliser against condensation and diesel bug.
  • If the boat sits for months, a full winterisation.
  • Detailed list: engine maintenance checklist.

2. Hull and bottom

  • Diver bottom cleaning if the boat stays afloat.
  • If the antifouling is spent, book the haul-out for winter.
  • Check propeller, shafts, anodes and through-hulls.

3. Deck: teak, gelcoat and fittings

  • Clean the teak and inspect seams and plugs.
  • Repair gelcoat chips and cracks before water gets in.
  • Check sealing of hatches, ports and fittings.

4. Electrics

  • Full battery charge and terminal check.
  • Charger or maintainer connected if you have shore power.
  • Switch off phantom loads. If something is wrong, call a marine electrician.

5. Sails, canvas and rigging

  • Remove sails, rinse with fresh water and store dry.
  • Check stitching, battens and lines; a good time for the sailmaker.
  • Protect or store biminis and sprayhoods.

6. Interior

  • Drain the fresh-water tank and water heater.
  • Clean and dry bilges and fridges.
  • Leave lockers open, ventilate and add moisture absorbers.

7. Lines, fenders and covers

  • Double lines, check chafe guards and add fenders.
  • Breathable cover if the boat sits in the sun.

What to outsource

Engine, electrics, antifouling, gelcoat and teak usually pay off in professional hands; cleaning, sails and lines you can do yourself. To pick someone, read how to choose a marine mechanic or yard and request quotes in your port via boat maintenance by port.

Frequently asked questions

Is it better to leave the boat in the water or ashore for winter?

Ashore protects the hull better and suits antifouling, gelcoat or teak work; afloat is cheaper in many marinas but needs checks on bilges, batteries and lines. It depends on the marina, the boat and the budget.

How long does the end-of-season check take?

What you can do yourself (cleaning, sails, interior) is a weekend. Engine winterising and electrical checks take a professional one or two days, plus the haul-out if antifouling is due.

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